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Text File | 1995-02-11 | 87KB | 2,050 lines

                    ÇiÅ HiNtBoOk
                                   By ÇeØ


 001:  Counterfeiting Money
 002:  Credit Card Fraud
 003:  Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach
 004:  Picking Master Locks
 005:  The Arts of Lockpicking I
 006:  The Arts of Lockpicking II
 007:  Solidox Bombs
 008:  High Tech Revenge:  The Beigebox
 009:  CO2 Bombs
 010:  Thermite Bombs
 011:  Touch Explosives
 012:  Letter Bombs
 013:  Paint Bombs
 014:  Ways to send a car to HELL
 015:  Do ya hate school?
 016:  Phone related vandalism
 017:  Highway police radar jamming
 018:  Smoke Bombs
 019:  Mail Box Bombs
 020:  Hotwiring cars
 021:  Napalm
 022:  Fertilizer Bomb
 023:  Tennis Ball Bomb
 024:  Diskette Bombs
 025:  Unlisted Phone Numbers
 026:  Fuses
 027:  How to make Potassium Nitrate
 028:  Exploding Lightbulbs
 029:  Under water igniters
 030:  Home-brew blast cannon
 031:  Chemical Equivalency List
 032:  Phone Taps
 033:  Landmines
 034:  A different kind of Molitov Cocktail
 035:  Phone Systems Tutorial I
 036:  Phone Systems Tutorial II



 Counterfeiting Money

 Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
 book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in
 counterfeiting US currency.  If you are familiar with this method
 of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

 Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
 involves etching a metal block.  Since etching a metal block is
 impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the
 process.

 Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
 with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
 material (usually orange in color).  The stripped negatives,
 commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate
 with an arc light plate maker.  The burned plates are then
 developed with the proper developing chemical.  One at a time,
 these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

 The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick
 360.  Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of
 the back side.  After developing them and letting them dry, take
 them to a light table.  Using opaque on one of the portrait sides,
 touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers.
 The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
 one color.  Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
 (lined up correctly) on the flats.  By the way, every time you
 need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side,
 cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
 the flat replacing it with the new one.

 Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color:
 black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
 by mixing inks).  Now you are ready to burn the plates.  Take a
 lithographic plate and etch three marks on it.  These marks must
 be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.
 Do the same thing to 2 more plates.  Then, take 1 of the flats and
 place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
 edge of the plate.  Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and
 cover up the exposed area you have already burned.  Burn that, and
 do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
 Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
 plate).  Develop all three plates.  You should now have 4 images
 on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

 The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for
 most situations.  The paper to use should have a 25% rag content.
 By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
 the job well.  Take the paper and load it into the press.  Be sure
 to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right.  Start with the
 black plate (the plate without the serial numbers).  Wrap it
 around the cylinder and load black ink in.  Make sure you run more
 than you need because there will be a lot of rejects.  Then, while
 that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
 side.  You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
 serial number ink.  You also need to add black to the back side.
 Experiment until you get it right.  Now, clean the press and print
 the other side.  You will now have a bill with no green seal or
 serial numbers.  Print a few with one serial number, make another
 and repeat.  Keep doing this until you have as many different
 numbers as you want.  Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
 paper cutter.  You should have printed a large amount of money by
 now, but there is still one problem;  the paper is pure white.  To
 dye it, mix the following in a pan:  2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
 bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
 with this).  Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
 US bill.  Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
 Also, it is a good idea to make them look used.  For example,
 wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

 As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
 printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly
 hard to understand.  Along with getting a book on photo offset
 printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA".  It is
 about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
 showing how to counterfeit.  A good book on the subject is "The
 Poor Man's James Bond".

 If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
 method available for counterfeiting:  The Canon color laser
 copier.  The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,
 including US currency.  But, once again, the main problem in
 counterfeiting is the paper used.  So, experiment, and good luck!
                          -ÇiÅ-
 Credit Card Fraud                brought to you

 For most of you out there, money is hard to come by.  Until now:

 With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
 easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
 always desired in life.  The stakes are high, but the payoff is
 worth it.

 Step One:  Getting the credit card information

 First off, you must obtain the crucial item:  someone's credit
 card number.  The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
 the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
 department store.  These can usually be found in the garbage can
 next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
 dumpster behind the store.  But, due to the large amount of credit
 card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
 sheet, making things much more difficult.  This is where your
 phone comes in handy.

 First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
 information as possible about them.  Then, during business hours,
 call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
 the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department.  We have
 been informed that your credit card may have been used for
 fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
 appearing on your Visa card for verification."  Of course, use
 your imagination!  Believe it or not, many people will fall for
 this ploy and give out their credit information.

 Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
 should be able to decipher the information given.

 Step Two:  Recognizing information from carbon copies

 Card examples:

 [American Express]
 XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
 MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
 JOE SHMOE

 [American Express]
 XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
 MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
 JOE SHMOE

 Explanation:
    MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
    expiration date.  The American Express Gold Card has numbers
    XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
    even if the card holder is broke.

 [Mastercard]
 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
 XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
 JOE SHMOE

 Explanation:
    XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
    process.  The first date is when the card was new, and the
    second is when the card expires.  The most frequent number
    combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX.  There are many of
    these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
    lists, so check these first.

 [Visa]
 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
 MM/YY    MM/YY*VISA
 JOE SHMOE

 Explanation:
    Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
    everywhere.  The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
    followed with a special code.  These codes are as follows:

    [1]  MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
    [2]  MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
    [3]  MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card

    Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
    use.  Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
    decent backing.  Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
    coverage.  Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
    XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX.  Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
    are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
    they are usually covered for large purchases.

 Step Three:  Testing credit

 You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
 credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
 number.  By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
 most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
 a special number you call that will give you an address from a
 phone number, at a nominal charge.  Now you need to check the
 balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
 out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
 stolen.  To do this you must obtain a phone number that
 businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases.  If you
 go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
 credit card purchase.  He/she will usually call a phone number,
 give the credit information, and then give what is called a
 "Merchant Number".  These numbers are usually written down on or
 around the register.  It is easy to either find these numbers and
 copy them, or to wait until they call one in.  Watch what they
 dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number.  Once you
 call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
 merchant number, amount, and expiration date.  The credit bureau
 will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
 number.  Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
 back to them to check it.  Ignore this number completely, for it
 serves no real purpose.  However, once you do this, the bank
 removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
 supposedly used to make a purchase.  Sometimes you can trick the
 operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
 not to charge it.  Of course, some will not allow this.  Remember
 at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
 check out the card for a purchase.  Act like you are talking with
 a customer when he/she "cancels".

 Step Four:  The drop

 Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
 package sent.  NEVER use a drop more than once.  The following are
 typical drop sites:

    [1]  An empty house

 An empty house makes an excellent place to send things.  Send the
 package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS.  I work
 days, 8 to 6.  Could you please leave the package on the back door
 step?"  You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
 telling them you want to look around for a house.  Ask for a list
 of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
 area.  Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.

    [2]  Rent A Spot

 U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
 signed for.  End your space when the package arrives.

    [3]  People's houses

 Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
 Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
 package to the wrong address.  It was already sent, but can you
 keep it there for me?"  This is a very reliable way if you keep
 calm when talking to the people.

 Do NOT try post office boxes.  Most of the time, UPS will not
 deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
 the past attempting to use a post office box.  Also, when you have
 determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
 characters and cars that have not been there before.

 Step Five:  Making the transaction

 You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
 necessary billing information, and a good drop site.

 The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
 It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
 phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number.  Now, when you call,
 don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
 salesperson into believing you are an adult.  These folks are
 trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
 voice.  They will ask for the following:  name, name as it appears
 on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
 shipping, and product.  Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
 day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
 order.  If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
 a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
 Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
 Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
 investigation on the order.

 If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
 charge.  Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser.  Be
 careful, and try not to order anything over $500.  In some states,
 UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
 that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
 credit fraud.  Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
 couple of years.  Good luck!
 Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

 Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
 and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
 grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
 France and Germany.  Common household bleach contains a small
 amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
 procedure that follows.

 First off, you must obtain:

 [1]  A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
 [2]  A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
 [3]  A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
      chemicals)
 [4]  Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
      nutrition stores)

 Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
 heating it.  While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
 potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
 Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
 and boil until you get a reading of 1.3.  If using a battery
 hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

 Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
 is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius.  Filter out the
 crystals that have formed and save them.  Boil this solution again
 and cool as before.  Filter and save the crystals.

 Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
 distilled water in the following proportions:  56 grams per 100
 milliliters distilled water.  Heat this solution until it boils
 and allow to cool.  Filter the solution and save the crystals that
 form upon cooling.  This process of purification is called
 "fractional crystalization".  These crystals should be relatively
 pure potassium chlorate.

 Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
 drive off all moisture.

 Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax.  Dissolve this
 in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
 into a plastic bowl.  Knead this liquid into the potassium
 chlorate until intimately mixed.  Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

 Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place.  Avoid
 friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds.  This
 explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof.  These block
 type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.  Also, a
 blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

 The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
 etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
 and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage.  You
 should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
 caution at all times while performing the processes in this
 article.

 You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
 writing:

      Information Publishing Co.
      Box 10042
      Odessa, Texas  79762
 Picking Master Locks

 Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
 Master combination locks and failed?

 The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
 protection scheme.  If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
 not turn.  That was their biggest mistake.

 The first number:

 Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
 While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
 the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
 not move any more, and add five to the number you reach.  You now
 have the first number of the combination.

 The second number:

 Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
 number you got.  Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
 number once.  When you have bypassed the first number, start
 pulling on the clasp and turning the knob.  The knob will
 eventually fall into the groove and lock.  While in the groove,
 pull the clasp and turn the knob.  If the knob is loose, go to the
 next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
 the combination.

 The third number:

 After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
 numbers.  Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
 pull on the clasp.  The lock will eventually open if you did the
 process right.

 This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
 Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
 mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
 The Arts of Lockpicking I              courtesy of ÇiÅ (Criminal in Action)

 Lockpicking I:  Cars and assorted other locks

 While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
 changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
 techniques have appeared on the scene.

 Automobiles:

 Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
 opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
 fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
 III);  however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
 lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
 will not work.  So:

 American Locksmith Service
 P.O. Box 26
 Culver City, CA  90230

 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
 car lock covers (inside the door).  Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
 postage and handling.

 Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
 people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
 they employ is very difficult to pick.  To further complicate
 matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
 Slim Jim type instrument very difficult.  So:

 Lock Technology Corporation
 685 Main St.
 New Rochelle, NY  10801

 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
 cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
 and/or start the vehicle.  The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
 for postage and handling.

 The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
 lockout tools offered by:

 Steck MFG Corporation
 1319 W. Stewart St.
 Dayton, OH  45408

 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
 tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.

 Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
 locks for many types of buildings.  They are a bit harder to pick
 and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
 installed door lock.  So:

 A MFG
 1151 Wallace St.
 Massilon, OH  44646

 Price is $11.95.  Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
 the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
 using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.

 If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:

 Veehof Supply
 Box 361
 Storm Lake, IO  50588

 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
 there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
 group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys).  Prices average about
 $20.00 a set.

 Updated Lockpicking:

 For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
 most pin and tumbler lock systems.  In reverse order of ease they
 are as follows:

 Normal Picking:  Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
          until the shear line is set and the lock opens.

 Racking:  This method uses picks that are constructed with a
       series of bumps, or diamond shape notches.  These picks
       are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
       With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
       stay there.  Raking, if successful, can be much less of
       an effort than standard picking.

 Lock Aid Gun:  This gun shaped device was invented a number of
            years ago and has found application with many
            locksmiths and security personnel.  Basically, a
            needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
            "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled.  This action
            snaps the pick up and down strongly.  If the tip is
            slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
            up and down strongly.  With a bit of luck they will
            strike each other and separate at the shear line
            for a split second.  When this happens the lock
            will open.  The lock aid gun is not 100%
            successful, but when it does work, the results are
            very dramatic.  You can sometimes open the lock
            with one snap of the trigger.

 Vibrator:  Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
        electric toothbrush power unit.  This vibrating effect
        will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.

 There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
 short time.  Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
 appearance, it is actually an electronic device.  I am speaking of
 the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:

 Fed Corporation
 P.O. Box 569
 Scottsdale, AR  85252

 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
 noise), and a cam roller.  It comes with three picks (for
 different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
 on pin or wafer locks.  The Cobra will open group one locks
 (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
 the hands of an experienced locksmith.  It can take a few seconds
 more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
 all.  It will also open group two locks (including government,
 high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
 longer.  It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
 about to be introduced to fill that gap.  How much for this toy
 that will open most locks in seven seconds?

 $235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.

 For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
 open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
 model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model.  It comes in a sturdy
 aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.

 If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
 fall back on the magic thermal lance...

 The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods.  Each tube comes in a 10 foot
 length, but can be cut down if desired.  Each one is threaded on
 one end.  To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
 matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
 oxygen tank.  Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
 standard welding ignitor.  The device produces an incredible
 amount of heat.  It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
 rocks.  An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
 seconds.  The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
 available from:

 C.O.L. MFG
 7748 W. Addison
 Chicago, IL  60634
 The Arts of Lockpicking II             courtesy of ÇiÅ (Criminal in Action)

 So you want to be a criminal.  Well, if you want to be like James
 Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
 because that is the only place you are ever going to do it.  Even
 experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
 they are unlucky.  If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
 elsewhere.  The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
 "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.

 First of all, you need a pick set.  If you know a locksmith, get
 him to make you a set.  This will be the best possible set for you
 to use.  If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
 give up hope.  It is possible to make your own, if you have access
 to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).

 The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small).  These
 should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot.  Now, bend
 the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
 degrees).  Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
 the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
 Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
 slide in and out smoothly.  Now, this is where the screwdriver
 comes in.  It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
 in the same lock at the same time, one above the other.  In the
 coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
 a lock:
 ______________________________
                   \ K
     |  |  |  |   |   |    / E
        |     |   |   |    \ Y           [|]  Upper tumbler pin
     ^     ^               / H           [^]  Lower tumbler pin
     ^  ^  ^  ^   ^   ^    \ O           [-]  Cylinder wall
                   / L   (This is a greatly simplified
                   \ E    drawing)
 ______________________________/

 The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
 upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall.  Now,
 if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
 That is where the screwdriver comes in.  Insert the screwdriver
 into the slot and turn.  This tension will keep the "solved" pins
 from falling back down.  Now, work from the back of the lock to
 the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
 screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.

 Do not get discouraged on your first try!  It will probably take
 you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time.  After that,
 you will quickly improve with practice.
 Solidox Bombs

 Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
 chemical can be bought over the counter:  Solidox.

 Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
 be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
 $7.00.  Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
 agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal.  The most active
 ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
 military applications in the WWII era.

 Since Solidox is literally what the name says:  SOLID OXygen, you
 must have an energy source for an explosion.  The most common and
 readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
 sucrose.  In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
 but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.

 Making the mixture:

 [1]  Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks.  One by
      one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
      and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
 [2]  The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
      weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
      of sugar.
 [3]  Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
      ratio.

 It is just that simple!  You now have an extremely powerful
 substance that can be used in a variety of applications.  A word
 of caution:  be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process.  Avoid
 friction, heat, and flame.  A few years back, a teenager I knew
 blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
 You have been warned!
 High Tech Revenge:  The Beigebox

 The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
 phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house.  To
 fabricate a beigebox, follow along.

 Making a beigebox:

 Obtain an old phone, and cut off the plug on the end.  Solder an
 alligator clip onto the red wire, and the green wire.

 Now, imagine the possibilities:  a $2000 dollar phone bill for
 that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
 operator at no risk to you!  Think of it as walking into an
 enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.

 Connecting the beigebox:

 Look on the outside of your victim's house, taking note of any
 wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their
 house.  Follow the wires, and find where they connect.  The
 telephone wire should be black, and about the width of your small
 finger.  You do NOT want the 220 volt house current, unless you
 like having a permanent orange afro.

 When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house, it should
 run down their wall, and into a small beige or grey box.  Some
 boxes have a bolt in the dead center, and some have even gone as
 far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem).  Now,
 you must open the box, and observe:  you should see three bolts,
 each with wires attached.  Connect the two alligator clips to the
 two outside bolts, and then you should get a dial tone.  If you
 do not get a dial tone, experiment with the connections.  By the
 way, don't worry about getting electrocuted;  there is not enough
 power in the phone lines to harm you.

 After placing a few phone calls, if you really want to get even,
 pull all the wires out of the box.  This will result in about a
 $100 dollar service charge for your enemy.

 Use your imagination!
            How to make a CO2 bomb

 You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
 or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
 powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
 powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
 cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
 I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
 but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
 from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run
 like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
 in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
 picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
 under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
 shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!!  -ÇiÅ-
 Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite        by ÇiÅ

 Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
 The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
 a good way to make large quantities in a short time:

 - Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
 connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.

 - Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
 chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
 conductive.

 - Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
 plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
 One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
 POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
 product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST
 ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).

 - Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
 put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
 and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
 you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
 with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
 making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?

 - Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
 cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
 overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
 seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
 up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)

 - Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
 until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum
 filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
 tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
 grams.

 - Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...

 - Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
 ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
 call around) will do the trick.  It takes the heat from the
 burning magnesium to light the thermite.

 - Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
 onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
 the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
 the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
 mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
 thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -ÇiÅ-
 Touch Explosives

 This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
 large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
 snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:

 - Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
 not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
 and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
 dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).

 - Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
 explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
 Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
 They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
 them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
 football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun!  -ÇiÅ-


 Letter Bombs

 - You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
 recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.

 - Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
 to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
 (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...

 - Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
 You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
 and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
 would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
 your bomb!!

 - Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
 Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
 fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
 one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
 cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
 outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
 explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
 powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
 the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
 least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
 flesh!).

 NOW that is REVENGE!                 -ÇiÅ-
 Paint Bombs

 To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
 refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
 or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
 the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
 the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
 this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
 the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
 off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
 door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
                     -ÇiÅ-
 Ways to send a car to Hell

 There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
 the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
 (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).

 - Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
 way through the pavement!

 - Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
 etc.)

 - Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this on is good!), a ping pong ball,
 or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.

 - Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
 the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
 tailpipe.

 - Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...

 - Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.

 - Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
 this:
          ----
          |  |
          |  |
          |  |
          | <
          ----

 Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
 you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
 is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
 detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
 on the seats!)

 Have Fun!                                    -ÇiÅ-
 Do ya hate school?

 - One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
 in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
 to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
 You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
 might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
 you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).

 - Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
 flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).

 - Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.

 - Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
  inside if they are (gag) IBM.

 - Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
 grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
 cards.

 - Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
 grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!

 - Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
 is a fascist.

 - Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.

 - USE YOUR IMAGINATION!                   -ÇiÅ-
 Phone related vandalism

 If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
 able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
 go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
 their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
 major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
 usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
 and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
 sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
 phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
 must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
                       -ÇiÅ-
 Highway radar jamming

 Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
 invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
 device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
 radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
 sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
 down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
 radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
 cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
 numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
 a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
 a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
 car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
 the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
 equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
 Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
 alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
 supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
 transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
 at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
 cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
 Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
 for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
 plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
 PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
 unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
 speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
 notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
 detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
 and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
 triggering their radar detectors!       HAVE FUN!
                        -ÇiÅ-

 P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
 POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
 get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
 of neat things!
 Smoke Bombs

 Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!

 4 parts sugar
 6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)

 Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
 Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
 few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
 stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
 Mail Box Bombs

 (1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)

     Small amount of sugar

     Small amount of water


 Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
 bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
 believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
 in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
 though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
 whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
                     -ÇiÅ-
 The easiest way to hotwire cars

 Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
 unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
 ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
 red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
 for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
 off!                                  -ÇiÅ-
 How to make Napalm

 - Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.

 - Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
 eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.

 - Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
 stuff lasts a long time!
                        -ÇiÅ-
 How to make a fertilizer bomb                       by ÇiÅ

 Ingredients:

 - Newspaper
 - Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
 - Cotton
 - Diesel fuel

 Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
 Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
 run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
 so don't do it in an alley!!               -ÇiÅ-
 Tennis Ball Bombs

 Ingredients:

 - Strike anywhere matches
 - A tennis ball
 - A nice sharp knife
 - Duct tape

 Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
 ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
 fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
 real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
 street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
                       -ÇiÅ-
 Diskette Bombs

 You need:

  - A disk
  - Scissors
  - White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
  - Clear nail polish

 - Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)

 - Remove the cotton covering from the inside.

 - Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
 metal might spark the matchpowder!)

 - After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.

 - Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture

 - Let it dry

 - Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
 to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).

 - When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
 the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
 DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
 and fix THAT!!!                        -ÇiÅ-
 Unlisted Phone Numbers

 There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
 this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
 to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
 are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
 installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service
 rep would call the customer service number for billing information
 in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
 the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
 something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown
 business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of
 town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if
 the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER,
 no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
 the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
 When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a
 listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
 DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if
 you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might
 want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists
 phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux,
 but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
 numbers down!                                -ÇiÅ-
 Fuses                            brought to you

 You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
 falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
 have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
 parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
 this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
 here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.

 SLOW BURNING FUSE
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)

 Materials needed:

  - Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
  - Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
  - Granulated sugar

 Procedure:

  - Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
 rinse with fresh water

  - Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
    1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
    1 part granulated sugar
    2 parts hot water

  - Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution

  - Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry

  - Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!

 FAST BURNING FUSE
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)

 Materials needed:

  -Soft cotton string
  -fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
  -shallow dish or pan

 Procedure:

  - moisten powder to form a paste

  - twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together

  - rub paste into string and allow to dry

  - Check the burn rate!!!
 How to make Potassium Nitrate

 Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
 things. Here is how you make it:

 Materials needed:

  -3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
  -1/2 cup of wood ashes
  -Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
  -2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
   bottom of the bucket
  -Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
  -Shallow, heat resistant container
  -2 gallons of water
  -Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
  -1 gallon of any type of alcohol
  -A heat source
  -Paper & tape

 Procedure:

  - Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
 metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom

  - Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom

  - Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
 the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.

  - Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes

  - Place the dirt or other material in the bucket

  - Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
 support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
 blocked.

  - Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
 it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.

  - Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
 bottom.

  - Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!

  - Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so

  - Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
 sludge in the bottom

  - Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
 grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
 form

  - When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
 it sit

  - After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
 mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
 is the posassium nitrate.

 Purification:

  - Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water

  - Remove any crystals that appear

  - Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
 to dryness.

  - Spread out crystals and allow to dry
 Exploding lightbulbs

 Materials needed:

  -lightbulb (100w)
  -socket (duh...)
  -1/4 cup soap chips
  -blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
  -1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
  -adhesive tape
  -lighter or small blowtorch
  -glue

 Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  - Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!

  - Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so
 that it touches the filament!

  - Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or
 else YOU will be the victim!!)

  - Get the hell out!!

 Procedure for a Napalm Bulb:
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  - Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler

  - Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.

  - Put somewhere and allow to cool

  - Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
 Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
 cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!

  - Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament
 back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
 fluid.

  - Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently
 used by the victim and get the hell out!!

 When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!

 Have fun!                              -ÇiÅ-
 Under water igniters

 Materials needed:

  -Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
   know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
   objects!)
  -Pack of matches
  -1 candle

 Procedure:

  - Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
 top.

  - Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
 against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
 one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
 Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
 diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
 TOUCH EACH OTHER!

  - Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
 work underwater

  - repeat to make as many as you want

 How to use them:

 When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
 reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
 components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
 of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
 heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
 use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
                       -ÇiÅ-
 Home-brew blast cannon

 Materials needed:

  -1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
   diameter
  -1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
   diameter
  -1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
  -1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
   pipe
  -5 feet of bellwire
  -1 SPST rocker switch
  -16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
  -15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
  -Electrical Tape
  -One free afternoon

 Procedure:

  - Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends

  - Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
 the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
 they should screw together easily.

  - Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
 then attach it to the level on the lighter:

  /------------------------gas switch is here
  V
  /------
 !lighter!!<---metal lever
 !!!
 !!

 Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
 the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
 lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.

  - Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch

  - Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
 switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
 Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
 of the top.

  - Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
 rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
 gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
 trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
 well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'

  - Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.

 1---------------
 v/
  2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
         3                                       the relay
  cc-------------/
  oo----------------4
  ii
  ll----------------5

 Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
 (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
 the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
 battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
 tiny little sparks.

  - Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
 towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
 the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)

  - You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
 set it off by flipping the switch.

  - Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
 You are now ready for the first trial-run!

 To Test:

 Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
 fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
 probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
 shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
 (trust ÇiÅ (Criminal in Action)! You are going to need it!). Hold the
 trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
 With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
 frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.

 Have fun!                                  -ÇiÅ-
 Chemical Equivalency list

 Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
 Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
 Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
 Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
 Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
 Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
 Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
 Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
 Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
 Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
 Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
 Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
 Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
 Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
 Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
 Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
 Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
 Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
 Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
 Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
 Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
 Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
 Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
 Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
 Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
 Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
 Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
 Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
 Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
 Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
 Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
 Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
 Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
 Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
 Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
 Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
 Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
 Sodium Borate................................................Borax
 Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
 Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
 Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
 Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
 Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
 Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
 Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
 Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
 Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
 Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
 Phone Taps

 Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
 simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
 control relay to the phone line.

 First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
 types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
 taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
 physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
 Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
 conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
 house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
 and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
 phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
 information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
 Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
 other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
 line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
 advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
 wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
 to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
 all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
 as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
 one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
 calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
 the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
 on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
 conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
 415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
 of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
 will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
 that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
 touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
 on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
 mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
 hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.

 Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
  A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
 the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
 cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
 conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
 cubes fall away unnoticed.

 A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
 doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
 bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
 Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
 did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).

 Here is the schematic:
 -------)!----)!(------------->
          )!(
   Cap ^      )!(
          )!(
          )!(
          )!(
      ^^^^^---)!(------------->
        ^  100K
        !
        ! <Input

 The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
 (least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
 output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
 recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
 10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
 purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
 thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
 transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
 input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
 want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
 Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
 wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
 end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:

 ------^^^^^^^^^------------
       ---------
       RELAY^^
 (part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)

 If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
 physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
 can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
 would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
 reading.

 For more info:

 BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
 HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
 remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
 Press.

                       -ÇiÅ-
 How to make a landmine

 First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
 and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
 a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
 piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
 desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
 the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
 from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.

        switch-----------battery
      \                  /
       \                /
        \              /
         \            /
         solar  igniter
           |
           |
           |
           explosive

 Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
 igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
 tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
 materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
 and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
 visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
 because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
 short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
 burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
 enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha

                       -ÇiÅ-
 A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail

 Here is how you do it:

  - Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full

  - Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight

  - Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
 to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
 bottle.

  - Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
 hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
 and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
 Have fun!                                    -ÇiÅ-
 Phone Systems Tutorial

 To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
 as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
 telephone numbering plan.

 North American Numbering Plan
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:

 A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , ie, area code
 B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
 (CO) code plus a 4 digit station #

 These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
 code. It is in the format of:

       Area Code         Telephone #
       ---------         -----------

      N*X             NXX-XXXX

 Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
        * = the digit 0 or 1
        X = a digit from 0 to 9

 Area Codes
 ~~~~~~~~~~

 Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes
 found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):

    510 - TWX (USA)
    610 - TWX (Canada)
    700 - New Service
    710 - TWX (USA)
    800 - WATS
    810 - TWX (USA)
    900 - DIAL-IT Services
    910 - TWX (USA)

 The other area codes never cross state lines, therefore each state
 must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is
 split by a state line, the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie,
 you can dial the same number from two different area codes).

 TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are
 owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other
 TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most
 likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s, these machines are
 routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with
 an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is [phone]. The
 answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".

 If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX
 messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have
 to hack your way onto this one!

 700:

 700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is
 targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this
 works, I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig
 works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak
 around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS
 system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is [phone]. Everytime
 Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a
 special 700 #, enters a code, and the number where he is staying.
 Now, if his boss received some important info, all he would do is
 dial [phone] and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed
 it to. Neat, huh?

 800:

 This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free
 calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area
 Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar
 with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of
 these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from
 anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated
 (that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery
 and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48
 contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only
 the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less people can
 reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.

 Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie, you can call it from only 1 state)
 always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie, 800-NX2-
 XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is
 located. For example, a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate
 at a NY CO.

 800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it
 tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if
 this is busy, it will try the next #, etc. You must have a minimum
 of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt
 series. If you dial [phone], it will first try the #
 associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next
 available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of
 hours of calls made to their #.

 OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls
 only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate
 discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls, they
 are in the format of:

    (800) *XXX-XXXX

 Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a
 letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX
 identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can
 call.

 Remember:

  INWATS + OUTWATS = WATS EXTENDER

 900:

 This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for
 taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute
 currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional
 minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!

 Dial [phone] to find out what is currently on this service.

 CO CODES
 ~~~~~~~~

 These identify the switching office where the call is to be
 routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:

    555 - directory assistance
    844 - time. These are now in!
    936 - weather the 976 exchange
    950 - future services
    958 - plant test
    959 - plant test
    970 - plant test (temporary)
    976 - DIAL-IT services

 Also, the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test
 and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.

 You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code
 (unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these
 exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as
 conference #'s, operators, test #'s, etc.

 950:

 Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:

    1000 - SPC
    1022 - MCI Execunet
    1033 - US Telephone
    1044 - Allnet
    1066 - Lexitel
    1088 - SBS Skyline

 These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress
 phones! Also, the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with
 the introduction of Equal Access

 Plant Tests:

 These include ANI, Ringback, and other various tests.

 976:

 Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also, many
 bbs's have listings of these numbers.

 N11 codes:
 ----------
 Bell is trying to phase out some of these, but they still exist in
 most areas.

   011 - international dialing prefix
   211 - coin refund operator
   411 - directory assistance
   611 - repair service
   811 - business office
   911 - EMERGENCY

 International Dialing
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 With International Dialing, the world has been divided into 9
 numbering zones. To make an international call, you must first
 dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #

 In North America, the international dialing prefix is 011 for
 station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s
 directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance
 Dialing (IDDD).

 The country code, which varies from 1 to 3 digits, always has the
 world numbering zone as the first digit. For example, the country
 code for the United Kingdom is 44, thus it is in world numbering
 zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other
 country codes, but here I give you a few:

    1 - North America (US, Canada, etc.)
   20 - Egypt
  258 - Mozambique
   34 - Spain
   49 - Germany
   52 - Mexico (southern portion)
    7 - USSR
   81 - Japan
   98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)

 If you call from an area other than North America, the format is
 generally the same. For example, let's say that you wanted to call
 the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his
 numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens, you know! ha ha).
 First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix),
 then 1 (the US country code), followed by 202-456-1414 (the
 national # for the White House. Just ask for Billy and give him
 the bad news!)

 Also, country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service, ie,
 calling ships:

    871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
    871 - Marisat (Pacific)
    872 - Marisat (Indian)

 International Switching:
 ------------------------

 In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform
 the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All
 international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed
 through one of these "gateway cities". They are:

   182 - White Plains, NY
   183 - New York, NY
   184 - Pittsburgh, PA
   185 - Orlando, Fl
   186 - Oakland, CA
   187 - Denver, CO
   188 - New York, NY

 The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to
 be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use
 a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard
 for signaling.

 Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this, read
 part two which is the next file #36 in ÇiÅ (Criminal in Action)'s cookbook!

                        -ÇiÅ-
 Phone Systems Tutorial part II

 Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office
 heirarchy, & switching equipment.

 Operators
 ~~~~~~~~~

 There are many types of operators in the network and the more
 common ones will be discussed.

 TSPS Operator:

 The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
 Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard,
 for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
 to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:

 1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
 calls

 2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.

 3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.

 4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
 # is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
 Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
 be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
 Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
 (ONI- Operator Number Identification).

 <I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator
 came on and said, "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity,
 I gave her the number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was
 connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
 & his wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
 originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
 immediately dropped this dual line conference!

 You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
 number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
 10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
 you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
 Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.

 INWARD operator:

 This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
 calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
 withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
 operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you would dial
 KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
 any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
 a future file).

 DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:

 This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
 or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
 from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES
 know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.

 There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
 use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
 baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
 acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
 to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
 call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
 800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
 for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
 regular operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being
 talked out of information through the process of "social
 engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.

 <Unfortunately, they do not have access to much. I once
 bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
 out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
 Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
 operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
 boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
 they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
 process your request (sorry, no fancy computers!)

 Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
 KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).

 CN/A operators:

 CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
 directory assistance operators are for. In my experience, these
 operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
 susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
 CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie, you give them the name &
 they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
 numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
 to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
 employee. Unfortunately, the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
 break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A

 INTERCEPT Operator:

 The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
 there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
 has been disconnected or changed. She usually says, "What # you
 callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
 lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from,
 it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
 they usually understand very little English anyway.

 Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.

 OTHER Operators:

 And then there are the: MObile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine
 Verify, "Leave Word and Call Back," Rout & Rate
 (KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special operators who have one
 purpose or another in the network.

 Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
 better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
 any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.

 By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
 4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
 fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
 example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.

 Office Hierarchy
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
 assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
 offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
 end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
 office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
 class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
 digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
 (known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).

 The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
 those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:

 Class                 Name           Abb          # Existing
 -----        ----------------------- ---      -----------------
 > 1          Regional Center          RC                   12
 > 2          Sectional Center         SC                   67
 > 3          Primary Center           PC                  230
 > 4          Toll Center              TC                1,300
 > 4P         Toll Point               TP                 n/a
 > 4X         Intermediate Point       IP                 n/a
 > 5          End Office               EO               19,000
 > 6          RSU                     RSU                 n/a

 When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
 equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
 class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
 called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
 parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
 servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
 call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
 sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
 switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
 groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
 the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
 probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
 signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
 probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
 Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).

 It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
 called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
 history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
 to really screw up the network].

 The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
 interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
 network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:

 Class 1 Regional Office Location   NPA
 --------------------------------   ---
 Dallas 4 ESS                       214
 Wayne, PA                          215
 Denver 4T                          303
 Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada)        306
 St. Louis 4T                       314
 Rockdale, GA                       404
 Pittsburgh 4E                      412
 Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada)      504

 That's it for now!
       -ÇiÅ-







 X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X

  Another file downloaded from:                               NIRVANAnet(tm)

  & the Temple of the Screaming Electron   Jeff Hunter          510-935-5845
  Rat Head                                 Ratsnatcher          510-524-3649
  Burn This Flag                           Zardoz               408-363-9766
  realitycheck                             Poindexter Fortran   415-567-7043
  Lies Unlimited                           Mick Freen           415-583-4102

    Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
        arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality,
        insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.

   Full access for first-time callers.  We don't want to know who you are,
    where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.

               "Raw Data for Raw Nerves"

 X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
 git, will also allow you to call special operators & other
 fun Tel. Co. #'Ä